Ketchikan is a scenic town of
approximately 8,000 people, located along the Tonga's Narrows, at the foot
of Deer Mountain, on Revillagigedo Island in Southeast Alaska.
Get around
Ketchikan's historic downtown is small and easily accessible by foot from
the most common tourist access point, the massive downtown dock where summer
cruise ships moor, however the rest of the town stretches miles to the north
and south along the waterfront. Taxi and bus service provides visitors with
access to outlying areas and to tourist destinations outside of town.
Visitors who arrive by air at the
Ketchikan
Airport must take a short ferry ride or water taxi from the airport's
location on nearby Gravina Island (2005 cost, $5.00) which will deliver them
to a terminal about 1.5 miles north of downtown and approximately 0.5 miles
from the nearest food and lodging. The Ketchikan side of the airport ferry
service is connected by local
bus service
and there are payphones available on the airport side and the Ketchikan side
to call for taxi or shuttle van pickup.
The Alaska Marine Highway System ferries, as well as the ferries of the
Inter-Island Ferry Authority (which serves Ketchikan, Metlakatla, and
several communities on Prince of Wales Island) arrive at a ferry terminal
approximately 1 mile north of downtown, is served by local bus service and
has pay phones available to call for taxi or shuttle service. Walk-on ferry
passengers who don't have a vehicle available in Ketchikan can find food and
lodging directly across the street from the AMHS ferry terminal.
Climate
Located in the vast coastal rainforest of Southeast Alaska, Ketchikan is
one of the rainiest cities in North America with just over 150 inches of
average annual precipitation. Visitors should therefore come prepared for
rain, especially if they plan activities on the water or in the forest or
otherwise away from town and easy access to shelter. During the summertime
precipitation is generally light and sporadic and daytime temperatures
average in the high sixties (F). Wintertime is marked by heavy, cold,
wind-driven rain, for months at a time with barely any respite and
temperatures in the high thirties.
Activities
Scenic Creek Street is popular with visitors to Ketchikan's historic
downtown
Over 800,000 visitors come through Ketchikan each year by cruise ship.
Most spend only a few hours in town, limiting their tourism and recreation
choices. Visitors who arrive by air, via the Alaska Marine Highway System,
or by private vessel and who have more time to spend can choose from a wider
array of activities.
Popular day-trip activities in Ketchikan include:
• Explore the historic downtown area and shop for souvenirs in the
tourist-oriented businesses located there.
• Visit local totem-pole collections: Saxman Totem Park (approximately 2.5
miles south of downtown), or Totem Bight State Historical Park
(approximately ten miles north of downtown Ketchikan), or the Totem Heritage
Center and Tribal Fish Hatchery (located within Ketchikan, approximately
0.75 miles from the cruise ship docks).
• Hike in the Tonga's National Forest.
• Charter a salmon- or halibut-fishing excursion.
• Rent a kayak from a local outfitter and explore the town waterfront.
• Take a tour boat or float-plane excursion to explore Misty Fiords
National Monument.
• Visit the historical exhibits at the local museum or the rainforest
interpretive exhibits at the Southeast Alaska Discovery Center.
Shopping
Judged by popularity, as measured in sheer dollar terms, the souvenir to
buy in Ketchikan is jewelry. But why? The prices aren't especially notable,
even in the shops which aren't set up to give kickbacks to the cruise lines
that send business in their direction (via a system of "recommended
shopping" guides, coupon booklets, and other tactics.)
In fact, the cruise lines generally find ways to take a cut of whatever
deals they can involve themselves in. For example, the overwhelming number
of visitors arrive in Ketchikan by cruise ship and arrange their excursions
through the cruise lines' activities desks. While this arrangement is more
convenient for the cruise passenger, many would be surprised to find out how
stiff a commission the line extracts from the local tour operator. As much
as half the cost of a tour may be sent back to the cruise line; consequently
passengers or other visitors who are willing to arrange their own tours
may find that they can get better prices from local tour operators by
dealing with them directly. Or they may not. In any case it can't hurt to
ask.
If you're looking for something with local flavor to bring home with you,
the area's seafood is exceptional and can be packed and shipped frozen back
to just about anywhere in the country. If you're leery about shipping frozen
fish consider smoked salmon, which travels well. If unsure, ask the store
owner to tell you what kind of salmon and where it was caught and packed. Of
the five types of wild Pacific salmon, king (chinook), silver (coho), and
sockeye (red) will usually be clearly labeled -- they're more highly sought
after and command a price premium. Salmon that is unlabelled, or is labeled
only as "wild Alaskan salmon" is usually either pink (humpback) or chum
(dog) salmon.
If you're seeking something more permanent to take home, several
galleries specialize in native-design art. Consider some of the strikingly
executed carvings or baskets, or if you're on a more modest budget, a print.
Local photographers offer some remarkable photos of the area's scenic
wonders -- be sure to save some time to actually see the wonders,
though and not just their photos. And a number of other local artists
produce a range of artwork which can accommodate almost any budget. On Creek
Street Soho Coho, a popular local gallery, sells modestly priced
artwork by several local artists and does a brisk trade in whimsical
fish-themed T-shirts designed by gallery owner Ray Troll.
Dining
I'm sorry to say that Ketchikan isn't really a restaurant town. There
are restaurants, of course, many of them quite decent, none truly
exceptional. But the peculiarities of our local tourist trade mean that the
800,000+ visitors we receive every year rarely patronize local restaurants,
since the overwhelming majority arrive via cruise ships that offer
all-inclusive meal plans. Consequently the restaurant economy in Ketchikan
is largely supported by locals and a fairly small percentage of visitors and
the number and variety of restaurants is not as large as one might expect
from a town so crowded with summertime visitors.
Fish is the local specialty. The fishing industry in Southeast Alaska is
not what it once was but vast amounts of salmon are still landed every year
and processed and shipped to all over the world. Wild Alaskan salmon is
world famous, and rightly so. Ask a local fisherman, however, and many will
express a preference for the lighter-flavored halibut. Either is a fine
choice, as are several other species caught in local waters, including
rockfish, ling cod, and Dungeness crab.
A word on crab: many visitors, excited to be in Alaska, are eager to dine
on the famous Alaskan king crab. I'm sorry to say that king crab aren't
commonly found anywhere close to Ketchikan and there is no commercial king
crab fishery here. So if you order king crab at one of our restaurants
you're going to be served crab that has been frozen and flown in -- it won't
be any fresher than if you'd ordered it at a restaurant back home. If you
crave a crustacean sensation order local Dungeness crab instead. Dungies
aren't as large or as exotic as king crab and it takes a bit more work to
eat them but their meat is pleasantly mild and sweet-tasting and you'll get
a fresher meal at a cheaper price. Save the king crab order for when you've
traveled much further north.
Located across from The Plaza shopping mall is The Galley, an old local
favorite. Thanks to a large local Filipino population, Ketchikan serves some
delicious cuisine that brings a taste of Manilla to Alaska. The Galley
offers Asian food and diner fare, from pancit to burgers. Don't miss the
addictive lumpia (a Filipino version of a spring roll), fried rice, and
noodle dishes. With friendly staff and a 60s decor, the Galley can't be
beat.
Ocean View Restaurant offers a good selection of Mexican and Italian, and
probably the town's best pizza. Chips and salsa are free, the food is
flavorful and fresh, and families are welcome. Vegetarian options abound,
something that cannot often be said in Ketchikan.
Cape Fox Lodge is probably the fanciest digs in town, and dressing nicely
for dinner is recommended. The prices are high, but whether or not the food
merits the cost is up to debate; it's not bad, but it's not quite as good as
it seems to think it is. There is a respectable beer and wine list, and the
views of the waterfront are stunning.
Lodging
Summertime visitors to Ketchikan should remember that summer is our high
tourist season and the town has a modest number of hotel rooms. There are
other options available besides traditional hotel rooms, however. Quite a
number of local bed and breakfasts host visitors. And many stay at remote
lodges, some accessible by road from Ketchikan, others requiring travel via
boat or float plane to reach them.
Campers can find pleasant accommodation for tent camping or RVs at
campgrounds at Ward Lake, Last Chance, and Settler's Cove. However,
facilities are primitive and electric and sewer hookups are not available.
Tent campers can also generally camp at undeveloped sites in the Tonga's
National Forest. Check with the Ketchikan Area Ranger District for details
and, where necessary, permits.
For the more adventurous, the US Forest Service maintains a network of
backcountry cabins and camp shelters throughout the region. Reservations for
cabins can be made on-line and a night at a forest service cabin usually
costs $35 - 45. Camp shelters are usually free and usually are on a
first-come, first-served basis. Check with the Ketchikan Ranger District for
details or visit the web site for the
Tonga's National Forest. Cabins
are primitive -- a spartan setup with a kitchen area, a stove (for heating,
not too practical for cooking) and sleeping platforms for four (or in a real
pinch six) but are generally isolated and located in sites of notable
natural beauty. Transportation to and from the cabins poses the biggest
challenge for most visitors, as none of the Ketchikan-area cabins are
available via the road system. Most are located next to salt water and
accessible by boat, some are on inland lakes and require a hike in or
transport via float plane, which can be arranged through a number of local
float plane services. |
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Aerial, Ketchikan and Tonga's Narrows, Alaska
Get in
Ketchikan is served by daily jet service from Seattle and Juneau and is
served by the ferries of the
Alaska Marine Highway System. Most visitors, however, arrive and leave
on the same day via the cruise ships which ply Alaska's famous Inside
Passage from early May through late September. Several harbors offer
transient moorage to private vessels cruising the Inside Passage.
Attractions
Set on the hillsides above the waterfront on a heavily forested, mostly
wilderness island, the town of Ketchikan is worth visiting on its own
merits. However, visitors with time for an extended stay should make an
effort to explore the steep rainy forests, deep-water channels, secluded
bays, and hundreds of small islands in the surrounding area. Travelers with
access to a boat of some sort, whether single-person kayak or gargantuan
luxury yacht, should devote some time to exploring the scenic passages and
inlets of the nearby waterways where fish are bountiful, it's not uncommon
to see whales and porpoises, and bears and eagles can frequently be seen on
the shore.
Further afield, about sixty miles from Ketchikan, on the eastern side of
Revillagigedo Island and the mainland opposite, lie the 3,570 square miles
of Misty Fiords National Monument, which straddles the 2,000-foot deep
waters of narrow Behm Canal and spans rich marine, coastal and mountain
forest ecosystems. The highlights of the monument are two spectacular
fiords, Rudyerd Bay and Walker Cove, each of which winds miles into the
mountainous coastal mainland. Thousand-foot waterfalls zigzag down
spectacular cliffs, their flow augmented in the spring and early summer by
melting snow, and fed throughout the year by the copious amounts of rain
that define Southeast Alaska's coastal climate.
In addition, Ketchikan is situated at the meeting place of three Alaska
Native cultures, Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian. Evidence of the rich
artistic and dance traditions of the native cultures is apparent throughout
the town, most visibly in the totem poles scattered through the historic
district and found in larger groupings in two totem parks near town.
In recent years tourism development fueled by the cruise-ship industry
has driven many local businesses out of the stores in the historic downtown
area replacing them with jewelry and souvenir shops, which is somewhat
regrettable, but fortunately much of the architectural character of the old
town remains and a number of businesses still specialize in selling local
artwork, carvings, and crafts. The
Ketchikan Visitors Bureau, located on the cruise ship dock, publishes a
walking tour of downtown Ketchikan that takes visitors through several
interesting neighborhoods. Visitors walking downtown should be sure to
include Creek Street in their walking tour. Historic wooden buildings stand
on stilts on both sides of a wooden boardwalk along Ketchikan Creek, which
summer visitors can expect to find filled with spawning salmon and
occasionally a few hungry harbor seals looking for easy prey. Once a raucous
red-light district, and during prohibition a row of speakeasies, Creek
Street is now home to a more reputable class of establishment but still
retains its delightful historic charm. |